R53minicooper’s Blog

April 30, 2009

DIY (Do It Yourself) Oil Gasket Replacement for Mini Cooper S R53 (Part 11)

Filed under: Repair Instructions,Uncategorized — r53minicooper @ 5:11 pm
Tags: , , ,

Removing and installing, sealing or replacing oil sump

Lowering and disconnecting AC Compressor


  1. Detach plug connector from A/C compressor (1).

  2. Remove retaining screws (2) of A/C compressor and lower compressor (3).


  3. Secure compressor to front end module. To do this just take a spare piece of wire loop around AC Compressor and the other part to some secure under the car and let the AC Compressor just hang. Release lower retaining bolt (1) on A/C compressor, tightening torque 64 52 1AZ .


  4. Unclip high-pressure line of A/C system. Do not disconnect high pressure lines! You just unclipping them so the AC compressor will “hang” under the car. Here is a picture of my AC Compressor hanging under car. Careful not to BEND the high-pressure lines. If the bend a little during reassemble bend them back gentle and make sure no tubes or lines are rubbing. I also wrapped a towel around the compressor to protect it from oil and WD-40 while I was spraying.


Reassembly: Tightening torque 64 52 1AZ .


If you do not remove/lower the AC compressor there is ONE bolt you will not be able to get to on the Oil pan.


  1. Remove power steering fan. You can replace if you want if you have problems with your fan. Removing it will help you get to a few bolts. NOTE: If you see a little rusted piece of metal on one of the fan blades DON’T remove it! It’s not garbage!!! It balances the fan and if it is removed or thrown away you will get a helicopter noise and bad vibration from under your car. Release nuts (1).


Tightening torque 32 41 14AZ Replace self-locking nuts

Unfasten plug connection (1).


Disconnect plug connection before installing fan.


Vehicles built before 1st March 2002


Remove fuse box cover and check whether the diode is still in

place. If the diode has already been removed do NOT continue with the following procedure: Necessary preliminary tasks:

Detach fuse box in interior.

Unwrap adhesive tape (1) from wiring loom to expose diode (4) and connectors (2 and 3).

Unplug connectors (2 and 3) from diode (4).

Remove and discard diode (4).

Reconnect connectors (2 and 3) and rewrap adhesive tape about wiring loom.



  1. Remove screws (1) of lower stabilizer bar and remove stabilizer bar. Remove retaining screws (2) and remove bracket from oil sump. Tightening torque 11 12 16AZ . Tightening torque 11 12 19AZ .


  2. Remove retaining screws (1) for transmission. Two shorter screws are inserted into oil sump. Tightening torque 21 11 1AZ These are probably over torque from the factory and might be hard to remove. Use plenty of penetrating fluid and your breaker bar. When reassembling even if this is torqued to factory specs it probably will leak a little. Check a week later and if you have a little oil between the transmission and oil pan you may have to tight the bolts a little more.


  3. Remove oil sump screws in specified sequence (13-1) and remove oil sump. Tighten down oil sump screws in specified sequence (1-13). Tightening torque 11 13 2AZ . Clean oil pan with degreaser full strength and check for any metel shavings and sludge and clean. Rinse with clean water and spray all around with WD-40.

  4. Clean mating surfaces of oil sump and cylinder block and check for damage. There is no specs on weather you should use a gasket sealer or not. It is up to you. I used a gasket sealer prior to installing my gasket. You may Replace gasket now. It only goes on one way.




Position gasket in accordance with alignment lugs.



If you have gotten this far you’re done! Congratulations! Just reverse these steps to reassemble your car. After reassemble check and clear and DTC in your cars computer with an OBDII reader.




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    Esia Air-Con (China) Ltd.
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    Comment by FRANK KING — December 10, 2009 @ 8:14 am | Reply

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